THE BEST OF MENSWEAR FALL/WINTER 2012Posted: 27/06/2012
So here’s officially introducing menswear as part of VIR SHETE | THE FASHION BLOG. Coming from a womenswear background and with make-up, hair & fashion styling experience appealing primarily to women, branching out into the vast domain of men’s fashion seemed like a mammoth task. However, not much later and to my surprise, I was enjoying myself a little too much and this is the product of endless hours of research, sleepless nights, limitless editing and a serious drive for fashion.
Men’s Fall/Winter 2012/13 has simply been a series of opulence, power and jubilation. Since New York yet doesn’t have an affirmed men’s schedule and London solely has one day dedicated to menswear, I’ve decided to focus this post on 10 menswear designers from each of the two centres of international men’s fashion – Milan and Paris – that have pushed the boundaries of fashion innovation while retaining their strong signature and showcasing a range that perfectly satisfies their male niche. As Milan stuck to clean cuts, exquisite tailoring and the image of the ideal Italian man, Paris took it further by reinventing the suit, pushing the boundaries of silhouette, form and proportion and testing the conventional norms of menswear.
The season manifests luxury, power, security and protection, with an occasional play on fantasy and flamboyant romanticism. Though minimal and über-sophisticated, the season does hit an intensely dark note with black being severely dominant throughout the season and youth culture influences such as Goth and Punk coming to the forefront; followed by psychedelic, military, Baroque and Japanese references. The reinvention of the classic tailored suit is a prime highlight of the season and as fairly said by Alber Elbaz (Creative Director, Lanvin) in an interview with Style.com, “We all talk about the return of the suit. Men need the suit back again. But I don’t think they want to look like a dandy. And I don’t think they want to look like their father. Because it’s a new generation and they want to wear it differently”.
Other pieces that made a fierce impact include seriously long overcoats, impeccably crafted bomber and cropped jackets, high-waist ankle-length trousers, kimono bodices and at last but not the least, skirts. Oversized, exaggerated shoulders against marked, narrow waists call for an intriguing play on form and proportion. Also, an excellent combination of structured silhouettes with utilitarian sportswear make the season not just outstanding but perfectly functional, practical and comfortable. An array of heavy and loose knits, crocodile, broken and treated leather, tapestry fabrics, sheep skin, plaids and forms of surface manipulation like studs, crystals and detailed embroidery define the textiles; while greys, camel, burgundy, navy blue, olives, teal, vibrant reds and white dominate the mostly mono/duo-chromatic colour palette, of course, succeeding black.
1. Frida Giannini for GUCCI
2. Christopher Bailey for BURBERRY PRORSUM
3. Donatella Versace for VERSACE
4. NEIL BARRETT
5. Giorgio Canali for CANALI
6. Paul Surridge for Z ZEGNA
7. Sergio Corneliani for CORNELIANI
8. Fiona Cibani & Ian Hylton for PORTS 1961
9. Ennio Capasa for COSTUME NATIONAL HOMME
10. Giorgio Armani for EMPORIO ARMANI
1. Marc Jacobs & Kim Jones for LOUIS VUITTON
2. Alber Elbaz & Lucas Ossendrijver for LANVIN
3. Stefano Pilati for YVES SAINT LAURENT
3. Bill Gaytten for JOHN GALLIANO
4. Veronique Nichanian for HERMÈS
5. Viktor Horsting & Rolf Snoeren for VIKTOR & ROLF
6. Riccardo Tisci for GIVENCHY
8. Nicola Formichetti & Romain Kremer for MUGLER
9. Phillip Lim for 3.1 PHILLIP LIM
10. ALEXIS MABILLE
That’s that for Men’s Fall/Winter 2012/13 – I hope the article was interesting, exciting, informative and well-justified for my first menswear post.
To watch full show videos, visit my YouTube channel:
Milan Men’s Fall 2012: http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLFCE0BE9E52E2F4C3&feature=mh_lolz
Paris Men’s Fall 2012: http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLF81C51E073FBFC35&feature=mh_lolz
Wishing you a fabulous and fashionable fall/winter 2012/13! X
Alber Elbaz interview with Style.com (2012) [Internet] Lanvin Fall 2012 Menswear, YouTube. Available from: (Accessed: 25.06.2012)
All images (2012) [online images]. Available from: [Accessed: 25.06.2012]
GQ UK (2012) [Internet] Available from: (Accessed: 25.06.2012)